Ascent to Heaven – Alipiri to Ananda Nilayam
Tirumala, situated in the plateau of Seshachalam, in Eastern Ghats, is the most preferred pilgrim centre for Hindu devotees. It’s replete with scenic, serene and divine ambience. People from all walks of life, irrespective of caste and religion visit this place in large numbers. That includes – rishis, yogis, poets, artists, sidhis — in other words, common men to kings.
All of them are fretful and desperate to have His darshan. It’s a blend of religious, historical, cultural and social backgrounds.
Ever since the Govindaraja Swami idol was installed on the premises of Sri Pardhasarathi temple, Tirupati has gained more prominence as an important pilgrim town. Several temples, temple towers, and royal palaces were built during the reign of the Pallavas, Chola emperors and their vassals, Yadava kings.
With this, the facilities for the pilgrims visiting Tirumala too have steadily increased. Because of all these, the steps route via Alipiri has gained more prominence. The service rendered by the Vijayanagar emperor, Saluva Narasimha Rayalu is exceptionally remarkable and incomparable. He had introduced several new festivals in Tirumala temple and also built several smaller temples and towers en route to Tirumala thus ushering in a new era for Tirumala.
Similarly, Matla kings, who were vassals to the Vijayanagar emperor and while ruling Sidhavatam and Seema in the present Kadapa district also had taken up several constructions for the benefit of the pilgrims. They repaired the steps route to the temple.
Alipiri – Path way to Tirumala
4 Main Routes to Tirumala
Earlier, pilgrims visited Tirumala hills mostly on foot. There used to be four main routes for the pilgrims to reach the hills.
They are –
- Firstly, for those who set out to Tirumala from Tirupati, Alipiri to Ananda Nilayam route,
- secondly a little further to the Srinivasa Mangapuram, Srivarimetlu or Sripati Steps route;
- thirdly, for the convenience of the pilgrims coming from Karnataka, Bhakrapet – Devarakonda Forest route, and
- fourthly, for those coming from the Kadapa area, the Sacred Feet route begins from Maamanduru.
The Alipiri route
The Alipiri route is historical and cultural, passing between two hills. All through this route, we find several inscriptions on the steps, reflective of the sentiments of the pilgrims. Not only their names and village names but also religious inscriptions, diktats, statutes and the details of the mandaps etc., can be found on them.
On either side of the steps, statues and figurines are used to delight the pilgrims. There used to be surging crowds singing bhajans and performing ecstatic dances. All of them had different devotional ways with one goal — to reach out to God.
Alipiri is a divine place enriched with artistic mandaps and temples. It is the base camp for Tirumala Hill ascent. In between, the pedestrian route and the ghat road for motor vehicles conjoin.
In Tamil, two words are used for Alipiri — ”Adipuli” and also “Adipadi”. Adipadi means the first step. Alipiri also is interpreted as “Alpasareeri” (small body). People believe that Lord Venkateswara blesses His devotes here in a minuscule form. Devotees perform Pradakshina around the Sanctum Sanctorum, keeping the metal feet of the Lord on their heads.
Earlier there used to be a tamarind tree there. Under this tree Tirumala Nambi, it is said, the maternal uncle of Sri Ramanuja elucidated some nuances in Ramayana to him. One day in the process, they got delayed for archana. According to “Sri Venkatachala Itihasa Mala” the Lord himself left His foot prints there for their archana.
The dilapidated mandap was restored on 9 August 2001 and an idol of Sri Venkateswara Swami was also installed there. In September 2016, it was sanctified as per Vaikhasana Agama rituals. On Fridays, Swami’s Abishek and on Saturdays, special pooja is performed there.
Originally, this mandap, replete with architectural beauty, was built in 1628 by a dedicated devotee of the Lord, Sri Matla Kumara Ananta Raju, a vassal of the Vijayanagara Empire. We can find the inscription on the walls to this effect. A little below, in front of the mandap, lies the statue of a devotee humbly prostrating before the Lord. It is believed that it is of Koval Kondayyan’s son Tammayyan’s. Some say that Tammayya could be one of the sculptors of the mandap.
Sri Laxminarayana Temple
To the East of Padala Mandap, is the West-facing Sri Laxminarayana Temple. It was originally of Sri Laxmi Narasimha. The main idols in the temple were stolen. Subsequently, in 2005, TTD authorities installed a Laxminarayana idol there. The earlier temple was built by Saluva Narasimha Rayalu. The roof of the temple had paintings on the ceiling depicting epics, like in Lepakshi temple; but over time all those have disappeared.
PERIYA GOPURAM
As we climb up the steps, we see a majestic gopuram (tower) full of sculptures. This tall gopuram is also called ‘PERIYA GOPURAM’. Even this was built by Saluva Narasimha Rayalu. After crossing the Periya Gopuram, to the left lies, Maha Vishnu in Matsya (fish) avatar. En route this way, the idols of Koorma (tortoise), Varaha (wild boar), Nrusimha, Vamana, Parasurama, Rama, Balarama, Sri Krishna, and Kalki are installed.
Talayeru Gundu
Even renowned lyricist Tallapaka Annamacharya touched this rock (Talayeru Gundu) and was ecstatic. This is also known as “TALA TAKIDI GUNDU” [The rock to which heads are touched.] It is staunchly believed that the rock has healing powers. Pilgrims climbing the steps touch this stone, with their respective organs, to ward off different kinds of ailments.
As we climb up the hills, new gopuram and Obeisance Mandap are seen. Even this was built by Matlakumara Ananta, in memory of his parents. Pilgrims worship Anjaneya Swami idols placed on either side. We can also see, on the way, Kings Mandap, Cardamom Mandap, Dabbarekula Mandap, and another Pada Mandap. As we climb up looking at these mandaps, we can see a huge Gopuram. Delighting the onlookers, this illuminated edifice shines like a diamond and can be seen from quite a distance. In the night it will be illuminated and delights the viewers.
We can also see the marble idols of Sita Mata, Rama, and Laxmana along with Anjaneya Swami, in the temple being maintained by the Endowment Department of the State. We will be surprised to know that, before the ghat road was laid, the invalid and incapable pilgrims were carried up in dolis.
In Gali Gopuram, the Bio-Metric Centre which helps the pilgrims with accelerated darshan and the free Prasad Distribution Centre are located. After passing this gopuram, we can see to a side, a pond called “Alli Dona”. Earlier it was a water reservoir.
If we walk across, CHITTEKKUDU (a small steep), and VOORELLA MANDAPAM, mamanduri heights, we can see the deer park. This park is to entertain and educate the pilgrims and holds about 200 deer, moose and mountain sheep.
7th mile
This is where the old Ghat road and pedestrian route converge. Here, a gigantic Prasanna Anjaneya Swami idol blesses the pilgrims. Extensive decoration and special pooja are performed for this on Hanuman Jayanti. Next to it, are the new mandap, old mandap, MUGGU BAVI (rangoli well) and on its edge, the idol of Sri Dasa Anjaneya Swami.
This temple is run under the auspices of Hathi Ramji Mutt. Tired pilgrims can rest there for a while in the garden rest house and continue their trek.
Laxmi Narasimha Temple
Even this was built under the auspices of Saluva Narasimha Rayalu. An idol of Yoga Narasimha Swami, carved in a red sandalwood tree is the speciality here. After we cross this temple and climb down a little, we see the first ghat road, which was built in 1944, with utmost devotion and assiduity. The old step-route running parallel has been restored and is named as “Annamayya Route”.
But the pilgrims do not prefer this route and use the usual ghat road for some distance! As we go along a green valley called AVVACHARI KONA, we see a small temple – “AKKAGARLU”. Here Seven Sisters receive pooja in the form of bricks. Earlier pilgrims had to climb down the valley and climb up. Now that strain is saved.
Mokali Mettu
After proceeding from Akkagarla temple, we take a turn and see the beautiful gopuram and beautiful steps –padikatlu leading us to the precincts of “THROVA BHASHYAKAR” [Bhasyakar (Ramanuja Swami) on the way] temple.
From there, Tirumala is not very far. We pass, Mokalla metla old mandap, SAREPETLU DESANTARI MANDAP and reach Tirumala Hill. From Mokalla metlu (steps) to Tirumala hill, we can find on either side the idols of Alwars, staunch devotees of Sri Mahavishnu, invoking pious feelings in the pilgrims.
We have climbed about 3,500 steps from Alipiri and reached the precincts of Ananda Nilayam. Next is another major step – darshan!
